The body is covered with the indoor soft cover, which I purchased years ago from Mario @ http://type3headquarter.de/
Donnerstag, 28. Dezember 2017
Hibernation
The Fasty is parking in the garage, awaiting better days. To keep the tyres round, I bought those blocks, they are very light and consist of a special "foam", but are super sturdy:
The body is covered with the indoor soft cover, which I purchased years ago from Mario @ http://type3headquarter.de/
The body is covered with the indoor soft cover, which I purchased years ago from Mario @ http://type3headquarter.de/
Samstag, 23. September 2017
small update
The Volksback is still going strong. The adjustment and jetting of the Weber carbs helped a lot, the engine is running cooler and more responsive. The front end is a little too low, especially with 2 passengers in the front seats, so I will re-adjust it a bit.
On my latest trip to the US I bought some more tools at harbor freight for the garage:
A set of picks to remove O-rings, a breaker bar to loosen those real tight screws, a wire stripper and some shrink tubing, as it really cheap and works well.
On my latest trip to the US I bought some more tools at harbor freight for the garage:
A set of picks to remove O-rings, a breaker bar to loosen those real tight screws, a wire stripper and some shrink tubing, as it really cheap and works well.
Dienstag, 18. Juli 2017
New throttle linkage and a job for an expert
Last week my friend Uwe (a big Thank You from here!) helped me machining my new throttle linkage. The former one was made of aluminium and due the angle it was mounted, I could not reach WOT (wide open throttle).
The new one has a slightly different set up and is made of hexagonal steel, so the thermal expansion should be reduced as well.
old:
During the movement the left linkage touched the cylinder shroud, so it was always hard stopped before it did the full throw
vs. new:
The initial angle is different and now it works perfect.The linkages have M5 left hand thread on one end and M5 right hand thread on the other other end + a jam nut on both ends. This makes tuning of the length really easy.
Then I checked the valves once more and made sure all is well...
As I delivered the Volksback today to a well known expert to optimize the Weber carb's jetting and set up:
I hope he will find some more HP in this engine - even though, I can't complain! I always felt it ran a bit lean and I didn't want to risk a blown engine due to overheating issues. The trip to Spa will show how it runs...
The new one has a slightly different set up and is made of hexagonal steel, so the thermal expansion should be reduced as well.
old:
During the movement the left linkage touched the cylinder shroud, so it was always hard stopped before it did the full throw
vs. new:
The initial angle is different and now it works perfect.The linkages have M5 left hand thread on one end and M5 right hand thread on the other other end + a jam nut on both ends. This makes tuning of the length really easy.
Then I checked the valves once more and made sure all is well...
As I delivered the Volksback today to a well known expert to optimize the Weber carb's jetting and set up:
I hope he will find some more HP in this engine - even though, I can't complain! I always felt it ran a bit lean and I didn't want to risk a blown engine due to overheating issues. The trip to Spa will show how it runs...
Donnerstag, 22. Juni 2017
The TÜV approval: Another 2 years admission for German roads
I can't believe it myself, but the Volksback is already on the road since almost 6 years!
This week it passed the TÜV inspection again with no advisories - this is how it should be.
Looking forward to more fun with this cool little old piece of automotive history...
This week it passed the TÜV inspection again with no advisories - this is how it should be.
Looking forward to more fun with this cool little old piece of automotive history...
Mittwoch, 14. Juni 2017
Samstag, 3. Juni 2017
Cosmic wheels for sale
I want to sell my set of Cosmic Wheels. 5x130 bolt pattern; 5,5x15 ET45.
incl. 2x 165/65/15 Conti Eco Contact, 7mm thread depth + 2x 185/65/15 Conti Eco Contact 7mm thread depth.All tyres are DOT 2012. The rims are made by Empi, they are in top condition, no scratches or dents.
450€ You can send me a comment or also find my add on Bugnet
incl. 2x 165/65/15 Conti Eco Contact, 7mm thread depth + 2x 185/65/15 Conti Eco Contact 7mm thread depth.All tyres are DOT 2012. The rims are made by Empi, they are in top condition, no scratches or dents.
450€ You can send me a comment or also find my add on Bugnet
Sonntag, 23. April 2017
Fuchs!
After more than 2 years of planning, today the Fuchs wheels were mounted!
The before picture:
... and the after picture:
In the rear I changed from 185/65/15 to 205/65/15 which means a more meaty tyre:
A slight bigger diameter and more width.
No tyre rubbing, no issues on full lock, the wheels seem to work perfect...
The before picture:
... and the after picture:
In the rear I changed from 185/65/15 to 205/65/15 which means a more meaty tyre:
A slight bigger diameter and more width.
No tyre rubbing, no issues on full lock, the wheels seem to work perfect...
Montag, 10. April 2017
New shoes, once more...
Well, it is about time for another set of wheels. Today I had the first 2 wheels mounted and balanced, unfortunately my wheel dealer ran out out of black balance weights... Nothing a black rattle can can't cure...
Montag, 3. April 2017
The last chapter...
After the clutch and everything else was assembled, all noises were gone, I wanted to start a test drive. Believe it or not, yet another problem occured. I was unable to to find reverse...
Today I removed the shift rod coupler cover and found this:
The shift rod coupler fouled the chassis - This prevented the reverse to be engaged.
I tried some deforming of the metal, but I finally used the grinder:
This cut out is invisble, after the cover is re-installed. I have no idea why the gearbox sits like this, but this was the only way to solve it on short notice!
Today I removed the shift rod coupler cover and found this:
The shift rod coupler fouled the chassis - This prevented the reverse to be engaged.
I tried some deforming of the metal, but I finally used the grinder:
This cut out is invisble, after the cover is re-installed. I have no idea why the gearbox sits like this, but this was the only way to solve it on short notice!
Samstag, 1. April 2017
It ain't over 'til it's over!
Another week passed, another time engine out and in again...
Yesterday I was positively sure that all is o.k. - just a little
adjustment on the clutch and back onto the streets. Well, that didn't
quiet worked out the way it should. Another squeeking noise - this time
from the clutch / throw out bearing - only during clutch engagement,
plus the fact that the clutch did not disengage, called for yet another
engine pull. Today I did again what I can do now almost blindfolded.
This time Oli was my mental and physical support. Actually we diagnosed
and measured several things, but no "ah - look at this - no wonder it
didn't work" moment. Anyway, after we were convinced that each and every
bit looked o.k. and some burrs were removed, some surfaces were
molykote lubed, we assembled everything for the gazillionth time. We
started the engine and checked the clutch: for the first time all feels
and sounds well!
Maybe tomorrow we will see a test drive... depending on the weather!
Maybe tomorrow we will see a test drive... depending on the weather!
Montag, 27. März 2017
IRS: the final
The last 2 weekends were a rollercoaster of ups and downs. Last week Sunday my friend Rui and I installed the engine. Upon the first start a shreeking noise couldn't be ignored.
As the engine, flywheel and starter were the same as before and the sound appeared to come from the gearbox, I suspected the gearbox to be faulty. So, engine out again! Nothing in the bellhousing, no rub marks, no metal flakes. All looked fine. Then I removed all the type 3 cooling stuff to check for signs of rubbing or wear. Again, nothing- everything looked perfect.
Then I organized another gearbox - a big Thank you to Thomas - and mated the egine to the box, outside of the vehicle. Upon start the same annoying sound appeared again!
Was there something wrong with the engine? It ran fine before. The only thing I worked on was the oil pump. To remove the oil pump, all cooling tins and propellers had to be removed again! Then, at least there were minor signs of contact between the gears and the oil pump cover - but this couldn't be the source of the noise.
As I was certain the engine MUST be o.k. internally, I reassembled it yet again - Thank you to Ralf for the spontaneous help!
Sunday morning, all wires, the header, exhaust and heater pipes had to be mounted again.
Guess what, the same story again. Shreeking noises. Then Olli stopped by, checked the situation and pointed towards the starter - which was also a possible source of the noise. So, we started the engine and removed the starter with the engine running and: The noise was gone!
So I harvested the Streaker and used it's starter in the type 3 with instant success, the engine ran beautifully, no disturbing noises!
Finally, I used the "noisy" starter in the Streaker and it works perfect - just like before in the type 3! I don't know exactly why, but I don't care anymore, both engines start with no issues- success in the end!
Tomorrow will hopefully see the Fastback back on its wheels for a proper test ride...
As the engine, flywheel and starter were the same as before and the sound appeared to come from the gearbox, I suspected the gearbox to be faulty. So, engine out again! Nothing in the bellhousing, no rub marks, no metal flakes. All looked fine. Then I removed all the type 3 cooling stuff to check for signs of rubbing or wear. Again, nothing- everything looked perfect.
Then I organized another gearbox - a big Thank you to Thomas - and mated the egine to the box, outside of the vehicle. Upon start the same annoying sound appeared again!
Was there something wrong with the engine? It ran fine before. The only thing I worked on was the oil pump. To remove the oil pump, all cooling tins and propellers had to be removed again! Then, at least there were minor signs of contact between the gears and the oil pump cover - but this couldn't be the source of the noise.
As I was certain the engine MUST be o.k. internally, I reassembled it yet again - Thank you to Ralf for the spontaneous help!
Sunday morning, all wires, the header, exhaust and heater pipes had to be mounted again.
Guess what, the same story again. Shreeking noises. Then Olli stopped by, checked the situation and pointed towards the starter - which was also a possible source of the noise. So, we started the engine and removed the starter with the engine running and: The noise was gone!
So I harvested the Streaker and used it's starter in the type 3 with instant success, the engine ran beautifully, no disturbing noises!
Finally, I used the "noisy" starter in the Streaker and it works perfect - just like before in the type 3! I don't know exactly why, but I don't care anymore, both engines start with no issues- success in the end!
Tomorrow will hopefully see the Fastback back on its wheels for a proper test ride...
Mittwoch, 22. März 2017
Breaking news:Edd China quits Wheelers Dealers after 13 seasons!
See for yourself:
Sad to hear, but I totally understand his reasons. I've learned a lot from him and I am convinced he will start over bigger and better as before. Already looking forward how exactly...
Wrench on, Edd!
Samstag, 18. März 2017
Another inci"dent"
When you think you're almost done...
Yesterday I planned to re-install the engine, when I checked the CV-joint to subframe clearance once more:
About 3-4 mm clearance - which is far too less. With the added weight of the engine and some torque applied during launch, there will be problems...
So, first of all, I needed a tool...
A worn out Porsche 944 CV joint outer ring came very handy, the outer diameter is 100 mm. I added a handle for "operation dent-ist"
This tool, a blow torch and a hammer was an effective set of tools. I "dented" both legs within 30 mins. A rattle can primer and some black paint and it was done!
Now there is ample clearance!
While I was at it, I changed to the correct IRS specific E-brake cables. The swing axle cables were a tad bit short...
Yesterday I planned to re-install the engine, when I checked the CV-joint to subframe clearance once more:
About 3-4 mm clearance - which is far too less. With the added weight of the engine and some torque applied during launch, there will be problems...
So, first of all, I needed a tool...
A worn out Porsche 944 CV joint outer ring came very handy, the outer diameter is 100 mm. I added a handle for "operation dent-ist"
This tool, a blow torch and a hammer was an effective set of tools. I "dented" both legs within 30 mins. A rattle can primer and some black paint and it was done!
Now there is ample clearance!
While I was at it, I changed to the correct IRS specific E-brake cables. The swing axle cables were a tad bit short...
Samstag, 11. März 2017
IRS Subframe: work continues
I am moving along...
brakes assembled:
Swapping from swing axle to IRS requires a modification to the shock absorbers. The internals are 100% the same, there is only 1 difference: The sleeve in the lower rubber mount: On IRS, there are longer sleeves:
Swapping one for the other is a simple matter of using the vise and pressing in the long sleeve and pressing out the old at the same time.
The brake hard lines had to be re-routed, too:
I used the brass fitting attachment points on the IRS brackets which are from a beetle chassis:
Shift rod connection also done - safety wire was added later - make sure you use the type 3 specific "hockey stick" in the gear box!
On a beetle hockey stick, the grub screw is attached from the top, so the counter sunk hole is in the wrong area!
This is the current status:
Starter motor, clutch cable, handbrake cables, drive shafts shock absorbers are installed!
brakes assembled:
Swapping from swing axle to IRS requires a modification to the shock absorbers. The internals are 100% the same, there is only 1 difference: The sleeve in the lower rubber mount: On IRS, there are longer sleeves:
Swapping one for the other is a simple matter of using the vise and pressing in the long sleeve and pressing out the old at the same time.
The brake hard lines had to be re-routed, too:
I used the brass fitting attachment points on the IRS brackets which are from a beetle chassis:
Shift rod connection also done - safety wire was added later - make sure you use the type 3 specific "hockey stick" in the gear box!
On a beetle hockey stick, the grub screw is attached from the top, so the counter sunk hole is in the wrong area!
This is the current status:
Starter motor, clutch cable, handbrake cables, drive shafts shock absorbers are installed!
Sonntag, 5. März 2017
finally: IRS Subframe
With the engine out to fix the oil pressure issue, I decided to finally go ahead and install the IRS subframe.
First step: Out with the old:
Next step is to assembly all the bits:
Porsche torsion bars, the IRS arms, urethane bushings, rubber mount for the gear box and the "Cup" cradle - so maybe some Cup struts might follow...
Then, shove it all under the body and lift it into position - sounds a little easier then it is,,,
but eventually, I made it!
The IRS arms are already in their final position. I only hope the torsion bars are adjusted correctly!
Well, this will only be seen after the final assembly, with everything in place and the car back on the ground...
A nice, dry bellhousing - I hope it stays dry - Of course, I already filled the gear box with the appropriate oil and replaced the input shaft seal.
Assembly of brake lines, drums and so on will follow soon!
First step: Out with the old:
Next step is to assembly all the bits:
Porsche torsion bars, the IRS arms, urethane bushings, rubber mount for the gear box and the "Cup" cradle - so maybe some Cup struts might follow...
Then, shove it all under the body and lift it into position - sounds a little easier then it is,,,
but eventually, I made it!
The IRS arms are already in their final position. I only hope the torsion bars are adjusted correctly!
Well, this will only be seen after the final assembly, with everything in place and the car back on the ground...
A nice, dry bellhousing - I hope it stays dry - Of course, I already filled the gear box with the appropriate oil and replaced the input shaft seal.
Assembly of brake lines, drums and so on will follow soon!
Oil pressure issues...
After the winter break I started the Volksback for the first time. Unfortunately, the doubts I had about the low oil pressure were confirmed. So. I had to remove the engine again, to fix the problem. But what IS the problem? I used the "wisdom" of the internet and also a forum which I think is a good one, especially when it comes to engines and issues with engines: http://bugfans.de/forum/~
The answer to my problem is (hopefully) the oil pump cover gasket. In the Victor Reintz engine seal kit, this particular seal is made of a superb material, but way too thick! it is ~0,3 mm, which allows the oil pressure to decrease drastically. I checked what else I had in my parts stash and found a 0,1 mm "paper" gasket:
this would be a step in the right direction, but after measuring the gap between the gears and the housing - which was 0,03 mm - I decided to use the Loctite 574 only.
The problem on the Type 3 is the fan and housing, the whole engine needs to be stripped in order to fix the oil pump - maybe not this much, but I checked some other things at the same time.
The engine is together again and will be in the Volksback soon.
But with the engine out anyway, I made the decision to finally tackle the IRS subframe installation...
The answer to my problem is (hopefully) the oil pump cover gasket. In the Victor Reintz engine seal kit, this particular seal is made of a superb material, but way too thick! it is ~0,3 mm, which allows the oil pressure to decrease drastically. I checked what else I had in my parts stash and found a 0,1 mm "paper" gasket:
this would be a step in the right direction, but after measuring the gap between the gears and the housing - which was 0,03 mm - I decided to use the Loctite 574 only.
The problem on the Type 3 is the fan and housing, the whole engine needs to be stripped in order to fix the oil pump - maybe not this much, but I checked some other things at the same time.
The engine is together again and will be in the Volksback soon.
But with the engine out anyway, I made the decision to finally tackle the IRS subframe installation...
Sonntag, 29. Januar 2017
Oldtimertreffen Ruhr Termine 2017
Latest info about a local classic car meeting, so this time in German only...
Jetzt steht es fest: letzte Woche sind die neuen Regelungen für Veranstaltungen auf der Zeche Ewald getroffen worden. Es gab Diskussionen wie viele Veranstaltungen der Standort und insbesondere das Umfeld (v)erträgt.
Durch Nachbarbeschwerden, die sich aber sicher nicht an uns oder andere schöne Formaten auf Zeche Ewald gerichtet haben, musste die Stadt Herten handeln. Es wird zunächst versucht die nächtliche Raser- und Tunerszene zu verdrängen Aber es muss auch zukünftig eine “Veranstaltungsrichtlinie” eingehalten werden, die Veranstaltungen begrenzt. Das trifft auch uns, aber wir werden 2017 min. 4 Treffen haben!
Fest stehen, die Termine 19. März, 16. April, 18. Juni und 17. September, der 15. Oktober wird vielleicht auch noch gehen.
Also – besser als nichts – und was dann 2018 wird, kann wieder ganz anders sein.
Also wir freuen uns auf die Treffen, auf den Baubeginn der MOTORWORLD und auf Sie!
Ihr OLDTIMERRTREFF RUHR-Team
News
21.01.2017Termine 2017 - leider anders als gewohnt
Jetzt steht es fest: letzte Woche sind die neuen Regelungen für Veranstaltungen auf der Zeche Ewald getroffen worden. Es gab Diskussionen wie viele Veranstaltungen der Standort und insbesondere das Umfeld (v)erträgt.
Durch Nachbarbeschwerden, die sich aber sicher nicht an uns oder andere schöne Formaten auf Zeche Ewald gerichtet haben, musste die Stadt Herten handeln. Es wird zunächst versucht die nächtliche Raser- und Tunerszene zu verdrängen Aber es muss auch zukünftig eine “Veranstaltungsrichtlinie” eingehalten werden, die Veranstaltungen begrenzt. Das trifft auch uns, aber wir werden 2017 min. 4 Treffen haben!
Fest stehen, die Termine 19. März, 16. April, 18. Juni und 17. September, der 15. Oktober wird vielleicht auch noch gehen.
Also – besser als nichts – und was dann 2018 wird, kann wieder ganz anders sein.
Also wir freuen uns auf die Treffen, auf den Baubeginn der MOTORWORLD und auf Sie!
Ihr OLDTIMERRTREFF RUHR-Team
Mittwoch, 11. Januar 2017
24,5 mm torsion bars!
Today I received a pair of 24,5 mm diameter Porsche 944 torsion bars for the IRS conversion. Now, everything is ready for the job!
Keep an eye on this topic, soon on this Blog!
Keep an eye on this topic, soon on this Blog!
Sonntag, 8. Januar 2017
Icy trip to Rosmalen
Yesteday we took a trip to Rosmalen on icy roads. We passed a few cars which slipped off the tracks. We took it slow and arrived safe after 2 hours. Here are just a few snapshots of the meeting - which on one hand had less retailer boots, but the entry is now at 15€ already!
post -71 Brazilian Fasty
Aluminium bodied Rometsch in rough shape
T2A with hand-wash friendly stance. You can wash the roof without a ladder!
A V-twin powered Volksrod!
This picture does not really present the number of visitors, in the swap meet area it was really crowded!
My all time favorite VW - The type 34 in the Airmighty boot:
a nice display of 80's BMX bikes
The Type 4 club displayed this Type 4 pick-up
It was the first time I spent more money on food than on parts...
post -71 Brazilian Fasty
Aluminium bodied Rometsch in rough shape
T2A with hand-wash friendly stance. You can wash the roof without a ladder!
A V-twin powered Volksrod!
This picture does not really present the number of visitors, in the swap meet area it was really crowded!
My all time favorite VW - The type 34 in the Airmighty boot:
a nice display of 80's BMX bikes
The Type 4 club displayed this Type 4 pick-up
It was the first time I spent more money on food than on parts...
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